Whispering Waves

An Island Rich in History, Myth, & Unique Character: Bimini, the westernmost district of the Bahamas, is actually a chain of islands located just 50 miles from the coast of Florida, making it the closest Bahamian island to the U.S. The islands are split in North & South Bimini, with a small boating channel splitting them. We are going to be visiting North Bimini, the more populated & developed of the two islands. What sets Bimini apart from the other Bahamian islands is its raw, unspoiled beauty & its close-knit community. Unlike Nassau or Grand Bahama Island, Bimini isn’t heavily commercialized or loaded with resorts or crowded with tourists.

Historically, Bimini has been a place of intrigue and mystery. It was once a favorite haunt of the famous author Ernest Hemingway, who spent several years living on the island at the now burnt down Compleat Angler House. Hemingway found inspiration in Bimini’s waters, where he fished for marlin, tuna, and swordfish, and wrote parts of his novel Islands in the Stream (which was published and released after his death in 1970, the turned into a movie adaptation in 1977.) It was also written as a song by the BeeGees who originally wrote it for Diana Ross, but it ultimately was recorded & released by Kenny Rogers & Dolly Parton in 1983.

Bimini is also steeped in lore, most famously for the Bimini Road—a mysterious underwater formation that some believe is a remnant of the lost city of Atlantis. This “road” is made up of large, flat stones that appear to be carefully placed in a linear pattern on the ocean floor, fueling speculation and fascination among both locals and visitors. (the last picture is a reconstruction of what the road possibly may have looked like or was used as)

Adding to the island’s allure is the annual migration of Great Hammerhead Sharks. Every winter, these majestic creatures congregate in the waters around Bimini, offering a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness one of nature’s most impressive spectacles. This migration draws divers and marine enthusiasts from around the world, eager to see the hammerheads up close in their natural habitat.
But the marine life in Bimini isn’t limited to just hammerheads. The island’s beaches and waters are teeming with life, where you’re likely to encounter stingrays, nurse sharks, sea turtles, and a variety of tropical fish. Whether you’re snorkeling, swimming, or simply relaxing on the beach, you’ll be surrounded by the vibrant and diverse ecosystem that makes Bimini so special.

Since 2022, I’ve had the pleasure of visiting Bimini four times, and every time, I’m struck by its incredible beauty. If it were up to me, I’d be there all the time. While I’ve only visited Bimini as a stop on various cruises, I should mention that getting there is easy even if you’re not on a cruise. There are ferries and flights that depart from Miami and Fort Lauderdale, making this stunning island more accessible than you might think.

The Unbelievable Beauty of Bimini’s Island Life: Bimini’s beaches are what dreams are made of. The sand is soft and white, and the water is so clear it almost looks unreal. Every time I step onto the beach, I’m reminded of why I keep coming back—it’s simply breathtaking.
My first visit to Bimini back in 2022 was unforgettable. I had the opportunity to go snorkeling at the SS Sapona shipwreck, a site rich in history and marine life. The SS Sapona was a concrete ship built during World War I, and after a series of events, it became grounded off the coast of Bimini, where it now serves as a unique dive site teeming with sea life. The wreck is partially submerged, creating a hauntingly beautiful underwater landscape that’s perfect for exploration.

Check out this drop down menu for a more in depth look of the history of the SS Sapona shipwreck (if you’re a history geek like me, definitely check it out)

The Fascinating History of the SS Sapona: From Wartime Vessel to Rum-Running Casino
The SS Sapona has a storied past that is as intriguing as the shipwreck itself. Built during World War I as part of an ambitious plan to supplement steel-hulled ships with vessels made from concrete, the Sapona was originally designed as a cargo ship. Here’s a look at its remarkable journey through time.
Construction and Early Years
The SS Sapona was constructed in 1919 in Wilmington, North Carolina, as one of a fleet of 24 concrete ships commissioned by the U.S. government during World War I. At the time, steel was in short supply, so the government explored alternative materials, including concrete, to build sturdy ships. However, the war ended before the Sapona and many of its sister ships could be fully utilized.
After the war in 1920, the ship was sold to Carl Fisher, a Miami entrepreneur and one of the developers of Miami Beach, who had plans to repurpose the vessel as a floating oil storage facility. However, this plan never materialized, and the Sapona was sold again, this time to a Bahamian businessman who had very different ideas for its future.

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The Sapona’s Infamous Years: Rum Running and Illegal Casino
During the 1920s, Prohibition was in full swing in the United States, creating a lucrative opportunity for those willing to risk smuggling alcohol into the country. The SS Sapona became a key player in this underworld activity. The ship was used as a floating warehouse for rum runners, who would transport illegal liquor from the Caribbean to the U.S. coast.
In addition to its role in smuggling, the SS Sapona was transformed into an illegal floating casino and nightclub. Wealthy gamblers from the U.S. were ferried out to the ship, where they could enjoy a night of illicit entertainment just outside U.S. territorial waters. The Sapona’s remote location, coupled with its robust concrete construction, made it an ideal spot for these clandestine activities.
However, the ship’s notoriety soon attracted the attention of U.S. law enforcement and the Coast Guard. Despite its location in international waters, the Sapona’s activities were no secret, and it became a target for law enforcement crackdowns on Prohibition-era smuggling and illegal gambling.
The SS Sapona’s operations came to an abrupt end when a coordinated raid by the U.S. Coast Guard and Bahamian authorities shut down the illegal casino and confiscated the smuggled liquor. The ship’s owners faced heavy fines, and the Sapona was abandoned, left to weather the elements and slowly decay.
The Great Miami Hurricane of 1926:
In September 1926, Southwest Florida & the Bahamas experienced a powerful & devastating Category 4 hurricane that caused widespread destruction across the area. The storm caused the Sapona to run aground on a reef off the coast of Bimini. The force of the storm was so powerful that it caused the bow of the ship to be ripped off and carried away. The exact location of the bow is unknown, it is believed to be lost at sea.

A Wartime Target: Military Practice During World War II
After the ship was grounded & the bow lost, the Sapona remained abandoned & left as a landmark off the coast of Bimini. As World War II approached, the SS Sapona found itself once again involved in military activities—but this this time for target practice. The U.S. military used the ship to test bombs and other ordnance on the aging vessel. The repeated bombardments took their toll on the Sapona, further damaging the structure and eventually leaving it in the state of partial submersion that divers and snorkelers find today.
The Sapona Today: A Diver’s Paradise
Today, the SS Sapona lies off the coast of Bimini, partially submerged and serving as a popular dive site for adventurers from around the world. The ship’s concrete hull has withstood the test of time, making it one of the most well-preserved shipwrecks in the region. The wreck is home to a vibrant array of marine life, including colorful fish, corals, and even the occasional shark, making it a must-visit spot for anyone exploring the waters of Bimini.
Interestingly, many divers believe they are exploring the bow of the ship when, in fact, they are swimming around the stern. This common misconception adds to the shipwreck’s allure, as its unique structure and history continue to captivate those who visit.
The SS Sapona’s journey from a wartime vessel to a rum-running casino and finally a military target makes it one of the most fascinating shipwrecks in the region. Its unique history and the vibrant marine life that now calls it home make the Sapona a must-visit site for anyone exploring Bimini. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, an experienced diver, or simply someone with a love for adventure, the SS Sapona offers a rare opportunity to connect with the past while experiencing the beauty of the present under the turquoise waters of the Bahamas.

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While snorkeling, I encountered a wide array of fish and other sea creatures, but the highlight of the day was yet to come. After exploring the SS Sapona, I went snorkeling with blacktip reef sharks—without a cage! This was, without a doubt, the most exhilarating and incredible experience of my life. Swimming alongside these graceful creatures in their natural habitat was both humbling and thrilling, and it’s a memory I’ll treasure forever.

I was fortunate enough to have some great pointers from folks who had visited Bimini before, as well as friends from school who now call the island home. Their insights helped me discover some of Bimini’s hidden gems that might not be on every tourist’s radar. Every time I visit, I make sure to rent a golf cart—it’s the best way to get around the island, and there are plenty of places to rent one.
No trip to Bimini is complete without stopping at CJ’s on Radio Beach, where the island’s culinary traditions shine through in every dish. The conch is a must-try, and the beef hash is another favorite of mine. After grabbing a case of Kalik (the local beer) from a nearby liquor store, I like to head to the southern tip of the island through Alice Town. This spot is a hidden gem, where the remnants of an old seawall and natural rock formations create a peaceful, sheltered area with calm waters. There’s even a small shipwreck right on the shore, adding to the area’s charm. From here, you can enjoy a clear view of the other island of Bimini across the boating and ferry channel. It’s the perfect place to unwind, soak in the tranquility, and appreciate the island’s natural beauty.

Dos and Don’ts for Your Visit to Bimini:

• Do Explore the Entire Island: Bimini is relatively small, so take the time to explore it fully. Whether by golf cart or on foot, you’ll find hidden gems around every corner.
• Do Bring American Dollars: While the official currency is the Bahamian dollar, which is on par with the U.S. dollar, American currency is widely accepted everywhere.
• Do Use ATMs: If you need cash, ATMs are available on the island, making it easy to access funds during your stay.
• Do Drive Carefully: Remember, in Bimini, they drive on the left side of the road, which is opposite to the U.S. If you’re renting a golf cart, take extra care when navigating the streets.

• Don’t Take Shells from the Beaches: It’s illegal to take shells, corals, or any marine life from the beaches. Help preserve Bimini’s natural beauty by leaving these treasures where they belong.
• Don’t Rush: Embrace the island’s laid-back vibe. There’s no need to hurry—take your time to soak in the scenery and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere.
• Don’t Skip Local Experiences: Whether it’s trying conch at CJ’s or visiting a local site, immerse yourself in the local culture and support the community.